Today, I spent quite an inefficient day exploring the old quarter. According to my GPS track, I walked 28km. I returned to the hotel three times in between, so had many repeated routes.
I tried to follow this route, but I swear, I spent most of it lost and not finding many of the things they mentioned. There are many small roads in between that aren’t listed on the map. And roads change names even though you’re still on the same one.
After a while, I just gave up and wandered around, often not knowing which direction I was heading to or came from.
Waking up to the alarm at 0530 to get to Hoan Kiem Lake to check out people exercising there, I stopped the alarm and went back to sleep. I only got up at 0630 and by the time I had breakfast at the hotel – pho – it was already 7am.
Heading right outside the hotel, I passed St. Joseph’s Cathedral, the hotel is named after this cathedral. It was having a packed service, and passing by 3 times today, I noticed that they had multiple services throughout the day. Probably because it is Sunday. Because there were so many people, I didn’t go in till at night. but I found the florescent lighting unpleasant, so didn’t take any photos.
The walk around Hoan Kiem Lake was very pleasant, but I realised I hadn’t seen any money changers. So I walked to Ha Trung Street in Hang Da. The hotel staff told me I’d find them there. But I saw motorcycle seat shops with leather shops and jewellery shops, but no money changers. Out of desperation, I went into the Western Union and they do exchange money. He gave me an excellent rate and I changed S$70. (at the rate of S$100 = 17,000,000 VND)
With Vietnam Dong in hand, I was ready to explore. So the walking began. I even crossed Long Bien Bridge that connects two sides of Hanoi that are cut by the Red River. It was one of the longest bridges at the time it was constructed in 1903. Since it is 2500m one way, I walked 5 km over and back again.
The Old Quarter is filled with shops and the shops tend to all be on the same street. Hang Gai for silks, Luong Ngoc Quyen Street with too many young backpackers, Hang Bac for silver and stones. There were streets filled with just baking items and cooking equipment stores. Dong Xuan is an interesting wholesale market with all sorts of dried products. Outside, surrounding Dong Xuan market, fresh produce is sold.
And at any narrow sidewalk, tiny corner, food stalls.
Armed with Dong, I could now eat.
I smelt grilled meat and it was preparation for a dish called Bun Cha. The version I tried had grilled meat, minced meat patties and some sort of ngor hiang with wonderfully crisp skin. You dip this into a salty and sour mix that has floating raw papaya in it. Very tasty. 50, 000VND.
Then I sat on a low stool and sampled Banh Gio a rice flour dumpling with a minced pork filling. Served with some chilli sauce. The rice is ground to very fine and it makes a light but very filling dough. It is jiggly, slightly gooey, a bit like eating porridge. Nice. I didn’t eat too much of the rice flour dough as I didn’t want to be too full. After all, I had to save space for dinner. 13,000VND.
Dinner was a place I wanted to try for lunch, but could not find the place. It’s on 14 Cha Ca Street (Fish street) where there’s a famous grilled fish dish that has been around since 1871. The fish is marinated with tumeric and is served on a hot wok at your table. Dill and spring onions are then thrown into the hot oil and then you do the rest – ie eat it. I’m not so sure I’m crazy about it. The fish seems to be fried rather than grilled. And you must have it with the dip, or it is rather tasteless. Still, it is worth a try. But an expensive one. 170, 000VND.
