The events described on this day happened on the 2nd of March 2013.
The ride from Hanoi to Hagiang is about 8 hours long. Hagiang, pronounced Hajang, is 318km and I’m going farther north than any other person I know who has been to Vietnam. In fact, I will travel right by the Chinese border.
Leaving at 0825, we finally arrive at the homestay lodging for the night at 1730. No internet access here, hence the late post.
Passing some towns like Ba Vi, famous for milk, Doan Hung, famous for pomelo and a town where we stopped for lunch, is supposed to be famous for Vietnamese tea.
Along the way, I also saw raw dog along street side stalls. Apparently, eating dog at the end of the month in the lunar calendar is good luck.
Lunch was, as expected, unimpressive. We had chicken that was not always cooked, there was plain steamed vegetables – which was bitter, but sweet from how fresh it was that it really didn’t need anything – and then there was fried frog. There was supposed to be beef, but they were so slow, the guide canceled the order.
The frog was unexciting. But now I know why people only offer frog legs. The rest of it is just bones. But why no one offers – or at least I don’t know of this, as I do not consume frog or part thereof on a regular basis – deep fried frog skin, is a mystery to me. Now, I’m not saying it’s great. I’m just saying it’s an option. The fried skin of the frog looks like fried fish skin. Only it is a little chewy as well. But this may be poor cooking techniques, as opposed to the quality of the frog skin.
So the day ended in a Tay village just outside Hagiang.
Pigs were living below, people on top, cooking, eating, sleeping. The snorting pigs soon fell asleep when night fell. Surprisingly, they’re not stinky as one would imagine. Actually, there was no smell. It was a very breezy house.
Dinner was cooked by the man of the house. Apparently he does the cooking when guests are around. We had lean pork fried with fresh coriander, fried beancurd with little tomatoes and coriander, fried fatty pork, two types of vegetables, one was pumpkin in its own broth, the other was plain steamed, a little woody. A dip of coriander leaf and vinegar sauce for dipping was placed in the centre.
The stove is in the centre of the hall and above it hangs drying meat. Above that even more meat and corn. Smoking away.
It was okay tasting. Fresh food. Simple. but the best thing was the cucumber from the farm, just so good to eat on its own.
With nothing much to do, I went to lie down on bed at 2030. Bed is spongy pad atop a straw mat. A small pillow, thick blanket and mosquito net completed the set.
I tossed and turned as the tv was still on. I stared at the roof and realised there some more nice looking mats stored above in the roof. I heard the water, the dogs barking. It was a really nice peaceful feeling.
It was nice, but during the night I woke up to animal sounds and feeling the hard wooden floor below the bedding pad. But even when I woke up, it wasn’t one of those frustrating “I need to sleep” moments. It was exciting to hear all these sounds around me.
But for just one night.